Let's Talk About Foundation...

As an LA based make up artist I've come across every type of skin known to man. Young, old, tanned, fair, cosmetically enhanced and everything in between. Woman constantly ask 'What foundation is the best for me'? Whew, that's a toughie to just pop out an answer on. Finding 'just the right' anything takes a ton of just plain old trial and error. Foundation, in my humble opinion, is probably the hardest. So many things to take into consideration. I came up with a little checklist to help you narrow down and pinpoint what you should take into account when you venture out to find 'the perfect foundation'!

Skin type:

The biggie! You probably know by now if your skin is oily, dry or a combination of both. There are so many formulations on the market that your head is probably spinning: foundations with moisturizers, acids, vitamins, etc. That's all fine, but just be sure you're not already getting some of these benefits from the moisturizers and eye creams you use. There is no real need to 'layer' products. It's not really overkill to do it, but I tend towards 'less is more' when dealing with the face.

Brett's Tip:

I will generally use an oil-free foundation on 90% of my clients. It's just 'cleaner'. It's the obvious choice for oilier skinned gals, but I believe that woman with dry skin should get moisture from their skin care regime.

Coverage preference:

I'm not a fan of heavy foundation. Who is? Most women who wear foundation over their entire face are doing so to cover hyper-pigmentation or other skin flaws. Sounds like an easy fix, but why make your forehead pay for the sins of your cheeks!

Brett's Tip:

Get a nice, sheer coverage foundation, apply all over, and THEN assess the acne or pigmentation issues you need to cover. You may find the 'veil' of coverage you get from that simple layer substantially cuts down on the amount of dark or red areas. At this point, you would go in with a small, tight brush and apply a fuller coverage concealer to zap away those spots. This way you aren't loading up on coverage in places you don't need it. Also, by doing a light application all over, you get to really see what 'pops'. Try it, you'll be surprised!

Color Choice:

Whew... so daunting! I could just scream if I see one more pale faced woman walking around. I call them 'living ghosts'. Woman who have a medium skin-toned chest and body, but an ivory face. To the woman making this mistake it's never noticeable until they see a photo of themselves. Yikes! Pasty face floating on a warm, human hued body. How does this happen, and how can one avoid it?

Here's my advice:

• SPF on face only - The big culprit. Remember if your really protecting your face from the sun you're gonna need to 'amp up' it's color to match the rest of your body.
• Matching to neck, not breastbone - Your neck is the palest part of your body. If you're matching your base to your neck, baby, you're in trouble! Match it to your breastbone area. This will give a truer match.
• Heavily pigmented finishing powders - If you have a face powder with titanium in it... stop using! It may look fine in person, but in pictures you'll look dreadful. The titanium will reflect the flash from a camera giving everywhere the powder is applied a flat, white look. Best to use a low pigment or sheerer finishing powder. If you're wearing base you won't need more coverage, trust me.
• Woman are afraid of healthy looking shades - I have zero idea why this is true... but it is. I've been working with woman for over 15 years in the make up profession and I will tell you that the colors a lot of woman gravitate towards are head scratchers! Ashy foundations that are too light. Muddy, mauve-y blushes and brownish rusty lip colors. YUCK! So unflattering. I think this is a knee jerk reaction to orange-y foundations, too bright blushes and overtly pink lipsticks of the past. These days there are gorgeous choices in warm, face flattering shades that are truer and more subtle. Don't resist letting your foundation boost your skin and give you a youthful, healthy glow.
• Bad light - A HUGE culprit! Make sure you have good, even light where you apply your make up. If your bathroom has an overhead fixture and that's all, you're gonna have a real problem. Overhead light can make even Charlize Theron look like Herman Munster! Overhead light creates shadows under eyes and give your face an uneven, hollow look. Clear a space for your 'beauty center'. Get a lighted make up mirror and set yourself up to do your face there. You want light coming at you more evenly. This is how you'll be seen by people out in the real world, not with a bulb over your head in the bathroom! I think I feel a whole blog entry on this subject alone!

Shopping Tips:

• Sample, sample, sample! - When shopping, take advantage of any line, drugstore or department store that offers little take home testers. This way you can take things home to try at your leisure.
• Be open to all brands - More $$$ doesn't always mean better, so be open to drug and department store products as well. One of my favorite foundations is Neutrogena's Healthy Skin, and believe me, it's very affordable!
• Ask questions - If you see a gal with a similar skin tone to yours and she's got a nice 'finish' to her skin, ask her what she uses. Who doesn't love to hear that they look great... share your tips and help a sister out! What better way to hone in on something that may work great for you than with a testimonial by a user!
• Do the scan - If I was a woman in a department store looking for a new foundation, I'd scan the ladies at the counter. Who looks most like what you want to aspire to? Who is in your age range or looks like they really know what they are doing? They say you can't judge a book by it's cover, and that may be very true, but it can sure give you a ton of info! If you are a 45 year old woman who's gotten a peel (or two) and you are looking for a new foundation, maybe the 19 year old girl at the Lancome counter isn't your best choice. It's not her fault. She just won't have the 'hands on' with your special needs. That being said, maybe the best salesperson for you is a man. I've worked at department store make up counters and there is (naturally) some help that is way stronger than others.
  

Okay, so there is my two cents on how to make the most of your foundation. It's your face, so take your time. Buying base shouldn't be an impulse buy. Roll up your sleeves and find a product that is perfect... FOR YOU!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics